A Sommelier's View on the Vegan Wine Movement

By Guest Blogger: Peter Wilke

Certified Sommelier

How Wine Producers are Helping to Transform the Conversation on Vegan Wines

If there is one question that average somms fear and great ones love, it is “Do you have any vegan wines?” Knowing what wines on your list are vegan adds an entirely new layer of depth to your salesmanship, and as the vegan community grows the question comes up more and more often. Though an expert sommelier should have a extensive working knowledge of every wine on their list, the research necessary to pick out vegan wines can be quite daunting.

With many wine lists containing hundreds of wines, having a thorough understanding of how each of those wines is produced can require months, even years of study. Fortunately, the one thing that can be said about somms is that we got into the business because we can’t stop obsessing over wine. The study of wine is an endless passion, and as producers shift their methods of production, we will continue to learn about how their wines are made.

Some Help from the Winery

Many producers have been increasing the visibility of their production methods on the label. While wine has been entrancing human-kind since before the Egyptians built the pyramids, the consumers of the last seven decades have had a particular interest in what exactly goes into a bottle. Many wineries and governing agencies have responded to this through various certifications and labeling practices.

Every great list should have both breadth and depth as it relates to the wines available. Because of this, every great list should include a multitude of vegan wines. Finding wines for your list with detailed labels can save you as a somm, your servers, and your guests a lot of time and effort. As animal-derived fining agents are the primary reason for a wine not to be vegan, grabbing a few bottles that are labeled unfined creates a great go to option for vegan guests.

The natural wine movement has also been gaining a lot of traction lately, and many wine bars have started cropping up around the concept. Especially in cities such as San Francisco, New York, Los Angeles, and Chicago, it is relatively easy to find a natural wine bar. Rounding out your list with a few of these wines can also make it incredibly easy to point to a bottle on your list. Some restaurants and bars have even started including these details on the wine list, making it easier for consumers to find vegan-friendly wines all on their own.

Some producers have started labeling their wines as vegan where it applies. These winemakers are at the cutting edge of labeling practices and will hopefully inspire others to pursue a greater level of detail in their labeling as well. The conversation has shifted in recent years from one of pure enjoyment to include the educational and cultural aspects of production. As consumers continue to expect more from their labels, producers will need to respond in kind or be left behind.

There are also many regulatory organizations, both NGOs and government run, which can help indicate whether or not a wine likely to be vegan. Demeter is the main certifying body for biodynamic agriculture. Biodynamics incorporates sustainable vineyard practices with a closed energy cycle and cosmic influence. The wines are often, to a degree, animal friendly. While animal products are necessary in the vineyard, they are often avoided in the winery. Organic production, which is governed by rules set down by the USDA here in the United States, often utilizes animal-friendly fining agents during the winemaking process.

The Evolution of the Movement

Since its founding in 1944, the Vegan Movement has gained traction across the globe. It should be obvious to everybody that exploiting animals is shady at best, and unethical and entirely immoral at its worst. As new generations begin to embrace the practice, food and beverage producers must adjust how they make their product. Beyond that, more data is being released on the effects of commercial agriculture on the environment, and people are increasingly likely to shift to a plant-based diet for reasons beyond that of simply treating animals in a ethical manner.

With increasing pressures for vegan-friendly wines, the market will be forced to adjust to accommodate the demand. Crafting vegan wine is becoming a differentiator both in restaurants and at the market. I expect that we will see greater clarity in labels for wines that are vegan very soon. If all it takes to sell your wine over another sitting on the shelf at Whole Foods or Trader Joes is the word “Vegan” on the back label, why wouldn’t wineries already producing vegan wines do so?

Educating Vegan Wine Drinkers

One very important thing that we as sommeliers can do to help people in pursuit of their favorite beverage is to educate them on appropriate labeling practices and inform them as to why most wines aren’t vegan. Understanding the fining process is a key component to selling vegan wines, and ensuring that your list has a variety of styles available is necessary to any successful wine list. When you have guests asking about vegan food options, that is a great time to begin the discussion on how animal products are used in commercial wine production. Use the conversation to guide them to a wine that fits with their life choices, and is delicious as well.

The discussion on vegan-friendly wines is not a short one, nor should it be. Just as time and care are put into every great bottle of wine, so too should the conversation relating to vegan wines be considered with extensive thought. The availability of vegan wine is expanding with each new vintage, so there is no reason not to have these wines on hand for your guests. Great wine can be enjoyed by everybody, and happy guests leads to more guests. This is exactly what every bar, restaurant, and wine market needs in order to be successful.

Cheers!

Peter